Memories of history - a profile of Bruges, Gent and Ypres

It’s back! Following on from the moderate success of my Berlin review last year, I’m back reviewing our cultural excursion to Belgium. Given this is written on a coach journey en route to Blighty, excuse any typos...

A long coach journey was passed by reading and listening to my music, interspersed only by listening to other people’s music - some of which I wouldn’t classify as such. By the time we arrived in Bruges, morale was draining and stomachs were feeling empty. Initiative was taken though to ensure we feasted on pizza. Except by ‘we’ I mean the 4 of us in the same room. Everyone else went hungry, not that I particularly cared at that point, the allure of an itchy blanket and a weird pillow somewhat attractive after a long day.

Friday started for 3 of us with a jog into Bruges just before the sun rose. Bereft of people, the Belfry tower and Burg square could be marvelled without the prying crowds of selfie-sticks and en masse tour groups.

Following a mediocre breakfast, we as a group walked into Bruges and took a riverboat tour, exploring the Venice of the North. The architecture was largely gothic in style and has been incredibly well preserved. Despite being occupied by German forces during both World Wars, the city escaped any damage - something which couldn’t be said elsewhere. 

Back into Market Plaza and in broad daylight, the square was filled with tourists. Fortunately, the Provincial Court house’s panoramic terrace allowed us to rise above the mayhem and admire the great view below. The history museum inside was interesting until it became bogged down in a narrative story and began to detract from the wider history of Bruges itself. The view from the top was very impressive however...

The afternoon was then spent perusing chocolate museums, enjoying samples whenever possible before heading out for a surprisingly good meal at De Halve Man restaurant. Consider this a recommendation. Not least of their salted, nutty chocolate brownie...

The following day (Saturday if you insist) we were up early to savour another mediocre breakfast - though this one was improved by the presence of hard-boiled eggs - before travelling across to the edge of Flanders to see Gravensteen, the famous Gent castle built for the Count of Flanders to flex his wealth on the mercenaries beneath him. Whilst Gravensteen was itself very interesting, the audio guide was detrimental to the experience, inserting too many personal anecdotes for my liking. Also, after Bruges, Gent felt dirtier and there was far less to wander around and admire compared to the former and its architecture. The view from the top was still good though...

That said, our time in Gent was cut short by the pressing demands of watching 22-men kick a pigs bladder past a wicketkeeper into an onion bag. For we were off to the football to witness the imperious Club Brugge conquer lowly Waasland Beveren.

Except it didn’t play out like that. Only a late winner spared Brugge’s blushes as Waasland defended well and deserved a point out of the game. Alas, in good spirits following a big win, we walked off into the night to join our compadres in Bruges city centre before splintering off to eat. Fewer activities than Friday but equally enjoyable. 

Then came yesterday, the day we all looked forward to but couldn’t enjoy. When surrounded by dozens of junior school children asking daft questions, I feared the Passchendaele museum would fail to impact me. Thankfully, they soon dissipated and we could take in the information about the infamous battle fought over these fields. The model trench was most insightful personally. Then we headed to Tyne Cot and my word it was horrible. In howling winds and aggressive rain we walked through row after row of Commonwealth War Graves. 

Not only were so many graves unmarked, but there were also hundreds of graves where soldiers could only be ‘probably’ identified and commemorated. The challenges this must pose for a family lacking closure cannot be overstated.

Following the walk through the graves and the memorial for soldiers not formally located, we hauled ourselves back on to the coach and headed to Ypres. The city is nice enough but the buildings surrounding the cathedral are noticeable newer and more modern. Having spent the afternoon perusing the streets and buying chocolate, after dinner we walked towards the Menin Gate and 3 Sixth Form representatives laid a wreath at the Last Post ceremony with the names of fallen soldiers all-encompassing. The ceremony was simplistic yet endlessly moving. It is very easy in Britain to feel detached from the horrors of the world past and present, and there is an unquantifiable value in continually learning and remembering such tragic losses of life. 

It wouldn’t be right to draw a direct comparison between this trip and Berlin because the activities and cities themselves are completely different. If I had the linguistic confidence to do so, I can imagine myself in Bruges for longer, amidst the pretty streets and fine statuettes. But for the educational value of new experiences and commemoration for the efforts of past generations, as well as the camaraderie between all 30 of us (teachers included), I’m in no doubt that this trip has been a success. And for that, thanks are required for the Alderbrook teachers who made it possible, let it be known that they are recognised and valued both inside and out of the classroom for their efforts.